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Rybí trh a stánky s jedlom Oistins Prezentácia

Rybí trh a stánky s jedlom Oistins Prezentácia



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AUTORSKÉ PRÁVA © 2020 Tribune Publishing. VŠETKY PRÁVA VYHRADENÉ DENNÝM JEDLOM ® JE REGISTROVANÁ OBCHODNÁ ZNÁMKA TRIBUNOVÉHO VYDÁVANIA.


Ryby Barbados a Oistins s Joelom Garnerom

Simon Briggs otvára sprievodcu letom v Karibiku a pripojí sa k kriketu Joel Garner v inštitúcii na Barbadose - piatkový rybí poter v Oistins.

Každá západoindická plážová párty má svoje vlastné prvky: hrubé šteklenie piesku, ktoré sa vkráda do vašich espadriliek, ostrý záblesk mečúňa vareného na grile, šialené bzučanie kalypsa bije.

Zatiaľ také klišé. Potom však zdvihnete zrak a uvidíte rad dôstojných starších, ktorí sa valia po nábreží k nepravdepodobným kmeňom Kennyho Rogersa. Pre každého znalca karibského nočného života by bolo prostredie okamžite rozpoznateľné: je piatok večer v Oistins, Barbados.

Muži sú elegantne oblečení v oblekoch z džezovej éry a obliekajú dámy, ktoré sú v určitom veku, nosia kvetinové šaty a kapucne, akoby sa zatúlali z nejakej patoisovej úpravy. Pýcha a predsudok.

Všetci sú súčasťou najelektickejšej noci na tomto alebo inom ostrove-noci, ktorá sa vždy začína hromadou tanierov morských plodov a zúčastňuje sa podporného obsadenia turistov s tričkami v tvare T, pouličných tanečníkov púšťajúcich telo a bielych. predstavitelia Michaela Jacksona v rukaviciach, ktorí sa prechádzajú na Mesiaci davom. Je tu celý ľudský život, nehovoriac o rôznych morských tvoroch, lákavo prskajúcich na grile.

Často sa hovorí, že karibská kuchyňa je taviacim kotlom, v ktorom sa miešajú vplyvy z Európy, Afriky a Ameriky. To určite platí aj o jedle v Oistins a sociálnej scéne.

Dedinka sa nachádza na južnom konci tohto ostrova v tvare slzy, pár kilometrov od hangáru britských turistov z Rockley a obľúbených barov St Lawrence Gap. Donedávna bol známy predovšetkým ako obrovský rybí trh, miesto, kde si Bajani prišli kúpiť svojho žraloka alebo barakudu alebo „delfína“ (vlastne dorado), potom odchytili autobus domov.

V určitom okamihu niekto zbadal obchodnú príležitosť. Prečo neotvoriť stánok pri ceste a nepodať na mieste niekoľko vyprážaných filé, možno s pivom alebo dvoma ich umyť? Myšlienka sa ujala, v súčasnosti je tu asi 30 reštaurácií a na pláž láka každý piatok večer tisíce stravníkov, pijanov a tanečníkov.

Aby som zistil, ako sa Oistins za tie roky znovuobjavil, dohodol som si večeru s Joelom Garnerom, jedným z najväčších kriketov, ktorých kedy Barbados vyrobil. Garner sa narodil v susednej dedine Enterprise a od začiatku bol pravidelným návštevníkom rybieho poteru v piatok večer.

„Nájdete ma tu každý týždeň,“ hovorí, keď sa delíme o tanier marlínu a španielskej ryže. „Je tu stánok, ktorý sa volá Babička a ktorý kedysi viedla Evelyn Walcottová - bola to naša večerná pani v škole a minulý rok mala 90 rokov. Stále som v kontakte so slečnou Walcottovou, pretože aj keď ste nemali peniaze na obed ešte by ti dala obed. “

Keď Garner príde k Oistinsovi, stále môže vidieť ducha dediny tak, ako kedysi bol. „Mali ste policajnú stanicu, trh, obchod so suchým tovarom, záložňu a Armádu spásy,“ vysvetľuje a ukazuje postupne na každú spomienku. „Nezabudnem, samozrejme, na babku. Teraz je to veľmi odlišné. Zbúrali všetky pôvodné budovy a rozšírili pláž. Ale stále to milujem, pretože sa stále niečo deje.“

Buldozéry dorazili pred jeden z veľkých setov ostrova, majstrovstvá sveta v krikete v roku 2007. Mohla to byť tragédia, ale ku cti Bajanovcov, že vedia, ako štýlovo modernizovať. Rovnako ako bol Kensington Oval - Garnerov starý raziaci bod - znovuobjavený bez toho, aby stratil čokoľvek zo svojej povahy alebo duše, tak sa pláž pri rybom trhu zmenila na obrovskú pôdu pre zábavu známu ako Bay Garden.

Na nových Oistinoch nie je nič polovičaté. Jedlo je len východiskovým bodom na mesačnú plážovú párty, ktorú zdieľajú pôžitkári každého veku a pôvodu. Babky tu nerobia len varenie: obúvajú si tanečné topánky a vyrážajú po piesku pred bar Lexie.

Hneď za ďalšou palmou nájdete na pódiu Bay Garden gang B-boyov break dance. A potom sú tu turisti: niektorí si prezerajú stánky so suvenírmi, iní prechádzajú po ceste a vydávajú moju Sharonu v karaoke bare.

Jedinou konštantou je kreolská kuchyňa: vyprážaná ryba s hranolkami alebo ryžou a výdatné vedľajšie jedlá, ako je chlebovník, cou cou (listová kaša vyrobená z kukuričnej múky a okry) a makarónový koláč. Väčšina varenia prebieha pod holým nebom, na obrovských panviciach, ktoré očividne videli veľa služieb.

Do niekoľkých minút od prijatia vašej objednávky príde poriadny kus tuniaka alebo mečiara ozdobený ohnivou omáčkou zo žltého korenia, ktorú miestni používajú ako kečup. A to všetko za 20 bajanských dolárov (6,50 libry) - suma, ktorú by ste minuli za malú fľašu vody vo vychytených reštauráciách „Platinum Coast“ na západnej strane ostrova.

Odporučil by som prísť asi o 20:00, práve včas, aby sa z lietajúcich rýb stali vyprážané ryby. To vám dáva šancu stráviť všetky tie ťažké uhľohydráty a visieť na nohách pri surfovaní z jedného z rebríkov umiestnených pozdĺž brehu. Ak chcete trochu intelektuálnej stimulácie, skúste vyzvať miestneho na domine, hre, ku ktorej Bajania pristupujú s akýmsi typom sklovitého oka, ktorý sa častejšie vyskytuje v profesionálnom šachu.

Garner je diabol pre domino. Táto hra odhaľuje jeho konkurenčný inštinkt rovnakým spôsobom, akým sa chvejúci chvost chvosta nachádzal na opačnom konci ihriska. Napriek svojim rekordným skúsenostiam ako torpédoborec anglických kriketových tímov si ho stále ctí štvrť milióna turistov, ktorí každý rok zavítajú z letiska Gatwick. Keď pretína dav Oistinov a týči sa nad hýriacimi ľuďmi ako ľudský maják, pravidelne ho oslovujú s cieľom podať ruku alebo autogram a odpovedá typicky bajanskou milosťou.

„Milujem Anglicko,“ hovorí. "Mal som tam domov, keď som hrával okresný kriket a stále sa vraciam do Somersetu za svojimi priateľmi z tých čias. Ale môj skutočný domov je v Enterprise. A je fantastické mať Oistins na prahu. Ak hľadáte niekam ísť v piatok večer, toto je miesto, kam ísť. “

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) ponúka spiatočné cestovné z Londýna Gatwick na Barbados od 569,90 libry vrátane daní, poplatkov a poplatkov. Ak chcete získať ďalšie informácie o ostrove, kontaktujte Barbadosský úrad pre cestovný ruch (www.visitbarbados.org) Zoznam cestovných kancelárií, ktoré predávajú dovolenky na tento a ďalšie karibské ostrovy, získate od Karibská organizácia cestovného ruchu (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Almond Casuarina je obľúbená medzi anglickými hráčmi kriketu od Grahama Goocha po Robina Smitha a je otočená na juh k pokojným, priezračným vodám pláže Maxwell Beach, v pešej vzdialenosti od rušného nočného života St Lawrence Gap a päť minút jazdy od mesta Oistins. 280-izbový hotel je usporiadaný okolo dvoch veľkých bazénov a má uvoľnenú atmosféru.

Hostia môžu využiť všetky zariadenia ďalších dvoch hotelov Almond na západnom pobreží Barbadosu: Beach Village a Beach Club & amp Spa. Vďaka bezplatným kyvadlovým autobusom je to šikovný spôsob, ako získať prehľad o ostrove.

All inclusive all inclusive noci od 999 GBP na osobu v septembri vrátane letov z Gatwicku s Virgin Atlantic, rezortných transferov, daní a príplatkov (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Na východ od letiska je Crane Bay s členitými útesmi a ružovým pieskom. Toto je juhovýchodná strana ostrova, takže vlny a prúdy sú silné.


Ryby Barbados a Oistins s Joelom Garnerom

Simon Briggs otvára sprievodcu letom v Karibiku a pripojí sa k kriketu Joel Garner v inštitúcii na Barbadose - piatkový rybí poter v Oistins.

Každá západoindická plážová párty má svoje vlastné prvky: hrubé šteklenie piesku, ktoré sa vkráda do vašich espadriliek, ostrý záblesk mečúňa vareného na grile, šialené bzučanie kalypsa bije.

Zatiaľ také klišé. Potom však zdvihnete zrak a uvidíte rad dôstojných starších, ktorí sa valia po nábreží k nepravdepodobným kmeňom Kennyho Rogersa. Pre každého znalca karibského nočného života by bolo prostredie okamžite rozpoznateľné: je piatok večer v Oistins, Barbados.

Muži sú elegantne oblečení v oblekoch z džezovej éry a obliekajú dámy, ktoré sú v určitom veku, nosia kvetinové šaty a kapucne, akoby sa zatúlali z nejakej patoisovej úpravy. Pýcha a predsudok.

Všetci sú súčasťou najelektickejšej noci na tomto alebo inom ostrove-noci, ktorá sa vždy začína hromadou tanierov morských plodov a zúčastňuje sa podporného obsadenia turistov s tričkami v tvare T, pouličných tanečníkov vyskakujúcich z tela a bielych. predstavitelia Michaela Jacksona v rukaviciach, ktorí sa prechádzajú na Mesiaci davom. Je tu všetok ľudský život, nehovoriac o rôznych morských tvoroch, lákavo prskajúcich na grile.

Často sa hovorí, že karibská kuchyňa je taviacim kotlom, v ktorom sa miešajú vplyvy z Európy, Afriky a Ameriky. To určite platí aj o jedle v Oistins a sociálnej scéne.

Dedinka sa nachádza na južnom konci tohto ostrova v tvare slzy, pár kilometrov od hangáru britských turistov z Rockley a obľúbených barov St Lawrence Gap. Donedávna bol známy predovšetkým ako obrovský rybí trh, miesto, kde si Bajani prišli kúpiť svojho žraloka alebo barakudu alebo „delfína“ (vlastne dorado), potom odchytili autobus domov.

V určitom okamihu niekto zbadal obchodnú príležitosť. Prečo neotvoriť stánok pri ceste a nepodať na mieste niekoľko vyprážaných filé, možno s pivom alebo dvoma ich umyť? Myšlienka sa ujala, v súčasnosti je tu asi 30 reštaurácií a na pláž láka každý piatok večer tisíce stravníkov, pijanov a tanečníkov.

Aby som zistil, ako sa Oistins v priebehu rokov znovuobjavil, dohodol som si večeru s Joelom Garnerom, jedným z najväčších kriketov, ktorých kedy Barbados vyrobil. Garner sa narodil v susednej dedine Enterprise a od začiatku bol pravidelným návštevníkom rybieho poteru v piatok večer.

„Nájdete ma tu každý týždeň,“ hovorí, keď sa delíme o tanier marlínu a španielskej ryže. „Je tu stánok, ktorý sa volá Babička a ktorý kedysi viedla Evelyn Walcottová - bola to naša večerná pani v škole a minulý rok mala 90 rokov. Stále som v kontakte so slečnou Walcottovou, pretože aj keď ste nemali peniaze na obed ešte by ti dala obed. “

Keď Garner príde k Oistinsovi, stále môže vidieť ducha dediny tak, ako kedysi. „Mali ste policajnú stanicu, trh, obchod so suchým tovarom, záložňu a Armádu spásy,“ vysvetľuje a ukazuje postupne na každú spomienku. „Nezabudnem, samozrejme, na babku. Teraz je to veľmi odlišné. Zbúrali všetky pôvodné budovy a rozšírili pláž. Ale stále to milujem, pretože sa stále niečo deje.“

Buldozéry dorazili pred jeden z veľkých setov ostrova, majstrovstvá sveta v krikete v roku 2007. Mohla to byť tragédia, ale ku cti Bajanovcov, že vedia, ako štýlovo modernizovať. Rovnako ako bol Kensington Oval - Garnerov starý raziaci bod - znovuobjavený bez toho, aby stratil čokoľvek zo svojej povahy alebo duše, tak sa pláž pri rybom trhu zmenila na obrovskú pôdu pre zábavu známu ako Bay Garden.

Na nových Oistinoch nie je nič polovičaté. Jedlo je len východiskovým bodom na mesačnú plážovú párty, ktorú zdieľajú pôžitkári každého veku a pôvodu. Babky tu nerobia len varenie: obúvajú si tanečné topánky a vyrážajú po piesku pred bar Lexie.

Hneď za ďalšou palmou nájdete na pódiu Bay Garden gang B-boyov break dance. A potom sú tu turisti: niektorí si prezerajú stánky so suvenírmi, iní prechádzajú po ceste a vydávajú moju Sharonu v karaoke bare.

Jedinou konštantou je kreolská kuchyňa: vyprážaná ryba s hranolkami alebo ryžou a výdatné vedľajšie jedlá, ako je chlebovník, cou cou (listová kaša vyrobená z kukuričnej múky a okry) a makarónový koláč. Väčšina varenia prebieha pod holým nebom, na obrovských panviciach, ktoré očividne videli veľa služieb.

Do niekoľkých minút od prijatia vašej objednávky príde poriadny kus tuniaka alebo mečiara ozdobený ohnivou omáčkou zo žltého korenia, ktorú miestni používajú ako kečup. A to všetko za 20 bajanských dolárov (6,50 libry) - suma, ktorú by ste minuli za malú fľašu vody vo vychytených reštauráciách „Platinum Coast“ na západnej strane ostrova.

Odporučil by som prísť okolo 20:00, práve včas, aby sa z lietajúcich rýb stala ryba vyprážajúca sa. To vám dáva šancu stráviť všetky tie ťažké uhľohydráty a visieť na nohách pri surfovaní z jedného z rebríkov umiestnených pozdĺž brehu. Ak chcete trochu intelektuálnej stimulácie, skúste vyzvať miestneho na domine, hre, ku ktorej Bajania pristupujú s typom sklovitého pohľadu, ktorý sa častejšie vyskytuje v profesionálnom šachu.

Garner je diabol pre domino. V hre sa prejavuje jeho súťaživý inštinkt rovnakým spôsobom, akým sa chvejúci chvosták kedysi pohyboval na opačnom konci ihriska. Napriek svojim rekordným skúsenostiam ako torpédoborec anglických kriketových tímov si ho stále ctí štvrť milióna turistov, ktorí každý rok zavítajú z letiska Gatwick. Keď pretína dav Oistinov, týči sa nad hýriacimi ľuďmi ako ľudský maják, pravidelne ho oslovujú s cieľom podať ruku alebo autogram a odpovedá typicky bajanskou milosťou.

„Milujem Anglicko,“ hovorí. "Mal som tam domov, keď som hrával okresný kriket a stále sa vraciam do Somersetu za svojimi priateľmi z tých čias. Ale môj skutočný domov je v Enterprise. A je fantastické mať Oistins na prahu. Ak hľadáte niekam ísť v piatok večer, toto je miesto, kam ísť. “

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) ponúka spiatočné cestovné z Londýna Gatwick na Barbados od 569,90 libry vrátane daní, poplatkov a poplatkov. Ak chcete získať ďalšie informácie o ostrove, kontaktujte Barbadosský úrad pre cestovný ruch (www.visitbarbados.org) Zoznam cestovných kancelárií, ktoré predávajú dovolenky na tento a ďalšie karibské ostrovy, získate od Karibská organizácia cestovného ruchu (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Almond Casuarina je obľúbená medzi anglickými hráčmi kriketu od Grahama Goocha po Robina Smitha a je otočená na juh k pokojným, priezračným vodám pláže Maxwell Beach, v pešej vzdialenosti od rušného nočného života St Lawrence Gap a päť minút jazdy od mesta Oistins. 280-izbový hotel je usporiadaný okolo dvoch veľkých bazénov a má uvoľnenú atmosféru.

Hostia môžu využiť všetky zariadenia ďalších dvoch hotelov Almond na západnom pobreží Barbadosu: Beach Village a Beach Club & amp Spa. Vďaka bezplatným kyvadlovým autobusom je to šikovný spôsob, ako získať prehľad o ostrove.

All inclusive all inclusive noci od 999 GBP na osobu v septembri vrátane letov z Gatwicku do Virgin Atlantic, rezortných transferov, daní a príplatkov (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Na východ od letiska je Crane Bay s členitými útesmi a ružovým pieskom. Toto je juhovýchodná strana ostrova, takže vlny a prúdy sú silné.


Ryby Barbados a Oistins s Joelom Garnerom

Simon Briggs otvára sprievodcu letom v Karibiku a pripojí sa k kriketu Joel Garner v inštitúcii na Barbadose - piatkový rybí poter v Oistins.

Každý západoindický večierok na pláži má svoje vlastné prvky: hrubé šteklenie piesku vkrádajúce sa do vašich espadriliek, ostrý záblesk mečúňa vareného na grile a šialené bzučanie kalypsa bije.

Zatiaľ také klišé. Potom však zdvihnete zrak a uvidíte rad dôstojných starších, ktorí sa valia po nábreží k nepravdepodobným kmeňom Kennyho Rogersa. Pre každého znalca karibského nočného života by bolo prostredie okamžite rozpoznateľné: je piatok večer v Oistins, Barbados.

Muži sú elegantne oblečení v oblekoch z džezovej éry a obliekajú dámy, ktoré sú v určitom veku, nosia kvetinové šaty a kapucne, akoby sa zatúlali z nejakej patoisovej úpravy. Pýcha a predsudok.

Všetci sú súčasťou najelektickejšej noci na tomto alebo inom ostrove-noci, ktorá sa vždy začína hromadou tanierov morských plodov a zúčastňuje sa podporného obsadenia turistov s tričkami v tvare T, pouličných tanečníkov púšťajúcich telo a bielych. predstavitelia Michaela Jacksona v rukaviciach, ktorí sa prechádzajú na Mesiaci davom. Je tu všetok ľudský život, nehovoriac o rôznych morských tvoroch, lákavo prskajúcich na grile.

Často sa hovorí, že karibská kuchyňa je taviacim kotlom, v ktorom sa miešajú vplyvy z Európy, Afriky a Ameriky. To určite platí aj o jedle v Oistins a sociálnej scéne.

Dedinka sa nachádza na južnom konci tohto ostrova v tvare slzy, pár kilometrov od hangáru britských turistov z Rockley a obľúbených barov St Lawrence Gap. Donedávna bol známy predovšetkým ako obrovský rybí trh, miesto, kde si Bajani prišli kúpiť svojho žraloka alebo barakudu alebo „delfína“ (vlastne dorado), potom odchytili autobus domov.

V určitom okamihu niekto zbadal obchodnú príležitosť. Prečo neotvoríte stánok pri ceste a nepodáte na mieste niekoľko vyprážaných filé, možno s pivom alebo dvoma ich umyjete? Myšlienka sa ujala, v súčasnosti je tu asi 30 reštaurácií a na pláž láka každý piatok večer tisíce stravníkov, pijanov a tanečníkov.

Aby som zistil, ako sa Oistins v priebehu rokov znovuobjavil, dohodol som si večeru s Joelom Garnerom, jedným z najväčších kriketov, ktorých kedy Barbados vyrobil. Garner sa narodil v susednej dedine Enterprise a od začiatku bol pravidelným návštevníkom rybieho poteru v piatok večer.

„Nájdete ma tu každý týždeň,“ hovorí, keď sa delíme o tanier marlínu a španielskej ryže. „Je tu stánok, ktorý sa volá Babička a ktorý kedysi viedla Evelyn Walcottová - bola to naša večerná pani v škole a minulý rok mala 90 rokov. Stále som v kontakte so slečnou Walcottovou, pretože aj keď ste nemali peniaze na obed ešte by ti dala obed. “

Keď Garner príde k Oistinsovi, stále môže vidieť ducha dediny tak, ako kedysi bol. „Mali ste policajnú stanicu, trh, obchod so suchým tovarom, záložňu a Armádu spásy,“ vysvetľuje a ukazuje postupne na každú spomienku. „Nezabudnem, samozrejme, na babku. Teraz je to veľmi odlišné. Zbúrali všetky pôvodné budovy a rozšírili pláž. Ale stále to milujem, pretože sa stále niečo deje.“

Buldozéry dorazili pred jeden z veľkých setov ostrova, majstrovstvá sveta v krikete v roku 2007. Mohla to byť tragédia, ale ku cti Bajanovcov, že vedia, ako štýlovo modernizovať. Rovnako ako bol Kensington Oval - Garnerov starý raziaci bod - znovuobjavený bez toho, aby stratil čokoľvek zo svojho charakteru alebo duše, tak sa pláž pri rybom trhu zmenila na obrovskú pôdu pre zábavu známu ako Bay Garden.

Na nových Oistinoch nie je nič polovičaté. Jedlo je len východiskovým bodom na mesačnú plážovú párty, ktorú zdieľajú pôžitkári každého veku a pôvodu. Babky tu nerobia len varenie: obúvajú si tanečné topánky a vyrážajú po piesku pred bar Lexie.

Hneď za ďalšou palmou nájdete na pódiu Bay Garden gang B-boyov break dance. A potom sú tu turisti: niektorí si prezerajú stánky so suvenírmi, iní prechádzajú po ceste a vydávajú moju Sharonu v karaoke bare.

Jedinou konštantou je kreolská kuchyňa: vyprážaná ryba s hranolkami alebo ryžou a výdatné vedľajšie jedlá, ako je chlebovník, cou cou (listová kaša vyrobená z kukuričnej múky a okry) a makarónový koláč. Väčšina varenia prebieha pod holým nebom, na obrovských panviciach, ktoré očividne videli veľa služieb.

Do niekoľkých minút od prijatia vašej objednávky príde poriadny kus tuniaka alebo mečiara ozdobený ohnivou omáčkou zo žltého korenia, ktorú miestni používajú ako kečup. A to všetko za 20 bajanských dolárov (6,50 libry) - suma, ktorú by ste minuli za malú fľašu vody vo vychytených reštauráciách „Platinum Coast“ na západnej strane ostrova.

Odporučil by som prísť okolo 20:00, práve včas, aby sa z lietajúcich rýb stala ryba vyprážajúca sa. To vám dáva šancu stráviť všetky tie ťažké uhľohydráty a visieť na nohách pri surfovaní z jedného z rebríkov umiestnených pozdĺž brehu vody. Ak chcete trochu intelektuálnej stimulácie, skúste vyzvať miestneho na domine, hre, ku ktorej Bajania pristupujú s akýmsi typom sklovitého oka, ktorý sa častejšie vyskytuje v profesionálnom šachu.

Garner je diabol pre domino. Táto hra odhaľuje jeho konkurenčný inštinkt rovnakým spôsobom, akým sa chvejúci chvost chvosta nachádzal na opačnom konci ihriska. Napriek svojim rekordným skúsenostiam ako torpédoborec anglických kriketových tímov si ho stále ctí štvrť milióna turistov, ktorí každý rok zavítajú z letiska Gatwick. Keď pretína dav Oistinov a týči sa nad hýriacimi ľuďmi ako ľudský maják, pravidelne ho oslovujú s cieľom podať ruku alebo autogram a odpovedá typicky bajanskou milosťou.

„Milujem Anglicko,“ hovorí. "Mal som tam domov, keď som hrával okresný kriket a stále sa vraciam do Somersetu za svojimi priateľmi z tých čias. Ale môj skutočný domov je v Enterprise. A je fantastické mať Oistins na prahu. Ak hľadáte niekam ísť v piatok večer, toto je miesto, kam ísť. “

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) ponúka spiatočné cestovné z Londýna Gatwick na Barbados od 569,90 libry vrátane daní, poplatkov a poplatkov. Ak chcete získať ďalšie informácie o ostrove, kontaktujte Barbadosský úrad pre cestovný ruch (www.visitbarbados.org) Zoznam cestovných kancelárií, ktoré predávajú dovolenky na tento a ďalšie karibské ostrovy, získate od Karibská organizácia cestovného ruchu (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Almond Casuarina je obľúbená medzi anglickými hráčmi kriketu od Grahama Goocha po Robina Smitha a je otočená na juh k pokojným, priezračným vodám pláže Maxwell Beach, v pešej vzdialenosti od rušného nočného života St Lawrence Gap a päť minút jazdy od mesta Oistins. 280-izbový hotel je usporiadaný okolo dvoch veľkých bazénov a má uvoľnenú atmosféru.

Hostia môžu využiť všetky zariadenia ďalších dvoch hotelov Almond na západnom pobreží Barbadosu: Beach Village a Beach Club & amp Spa. Vďaka bezplatným kyvadlovým autobusom je to šikovný spôsob, ako získať prehľad o ostrove.

All inclusive all inclusive noci od 999 GBP na osobu v septembri vrátane letov z Gatwicku do Virgin Atlantic, rezortných transferov, daní a príplatkov (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Na východ od letiska je Crane Bay s členitými útesmi a ružovým pieskom. Toto je juhovýchodná strana ostrova, takže vlny a prúdy sú silné.


Ryby Barbados a Oistins s Joelom Garnerom

Simon Briggs otvára sprievodcu letom v Karibiku a pripojí sa k kriketu Joel Garner v inštitúcii na Barbadose - piatkový rybí poter v Oistins.

Každá západoindická plážová párty má svoje vlastné prvky: hrubé šteklenie piesku, ktoré sa vkráda do vašich espadriliek, ostrý záblesk mečúňa vareného na grile, šialené bzučanie kalypsa bije.

Zatiaľ také klišé. Potom však zdvihnete zrak a uvidíte rad dôstojných starších, ktorí sa valia po nábreží k nepravdepodobným kmeňom Kennyho Rogersa. Pre každého znalca karibského nočného života by bolo prostredie okamžite rozpoznateľné: je piatok večer v Oistins, Barbados.

Muži sú elegantne oblečení v oblekoch z džezovej éry a obliekajú dámy, ktoré sú v určitom veku, nosia kvetinové šaty a kapucne, akoby sa zatúlali z nejakej patoisovej úpravy. Pýcha a predsudok.

Všetci sú súčasťou najelektickejšej noci na tomto alebo inom ostrove-noci, ktorá sa vždy začína hromadou tanierov morských plodov a zúčastňuje sa podporného obsadenia turistov s tričkami v tvare T, pouličných tanečníkov púšťajúcich telo a bielych. predstavitelia Michaela Jacksona v rukaviciach, ktorí sa prechádzajú na Mesiaci davom. Je tu všetok ľudský život, nehovoriac o rôznych morských tvoroch, lákavo prskajúcich na grile.

Často sa hovorí, že karibská kuchyňa je taviacim kotlom, v ktorom sa miešajú vplyvy z Európy, Afriky a Ameriky. To určite platí aj o jedle v Oistins a sociálnej scéne.

Dedinka sa nachádza na južnom konci tohto ostrova v tvare slzy, pár kilometrov od hangáru britských turistov z Rockley a obľúbených barov St Lawrence Gap. Donedávna bol známy predovšetkým ako obrovský rybí trh, miesto, kde si Bajani prišli kúpiť svojho žraloka alebo barakudu alebo „delfína“ (vlastne dorado), potom odchytili autobus domov.

V určitom okamihu si niekto všimol obchodnú príležitosť. Prečo neotvoriť stánok pri ceste a nepodať na mieste niekoľko vyprážaných filé, možno s pivom alebo dvoma ich umyť? Myšlienka sa ujala, v súčasnosti je tu asi 30 reštaurácií a na pláž láka každý piatok večer tisíce stravníkov, pijanov a tanečníkov.

Aby som zistil, ako sa Oistins za tie roky znovuobjavil, dohodol som si večeru s Joelom Garnerom, jedným z najväčších kriketov, ktorých kedy Barbados vyrobil. Garner sa narodil v susednej dedine Enterprise a od začiatku bol pravidelným návštevníkom rybieho poteru v piatok večer.

„Nájdete ma tu každý týždeň,“ hovorí, keď sa delíme o tanier marlínu a španielskej ryže. „Je tu stánok, ktorý sa volá Babička a ktorý kedysi viedla Evelyn Walcottová - bola to naša večerná pani v škole a minulý rok mala 90 rokov. Stále som v kontakte so slečnou Walcottovou, pretože aj keď ste nemali peniaze na obed ešte by ti dala obed. “

Keď Garner príde k Oistinsovi, stále môže vidieť ducha dediny tak, ako kedysi bol. „Mali ste policajnú stanicu, trh, obchod so suchým tovarom, záložňu a Armádu spásy,“ vysvetľuje a ukazuje postupne na každú spomienku. „Nezabudnem, samozrejme, na babku. Teraz je to veľmi odlišné. Zbúrali všetky pôvodné budovy a rozšírili pláž. Ale stále to milujem, pretože sa stále niečo deje.“

Buldozéry dorazili pred jeden z veľkých setov ostrova, majstrovstvá sveta v krikete v roku 2007. Mohla to byť tragédia, ale ku cti Bajanovcov, že vedia, ako štýlovo modernizovať. Rovnako ako bol Kensington Oval - Garnerov starý raziaci bod - znovuobjavený bez toho, aby stratil čokoľvek zo svojho charakteru alebo duše, tak sa pláž pri rybom trhu zmenila na obrovskú pôdu pre zábavu známu ako Bay Garden.

Na nových Oistinoch nie je nič polovičaté. Jedlo je len východiskovým bodom na mesačnú plážovú párty, ktorú zdieľajú pôžitkári každého veku a pôvodu. Babky tu nerobia len varenie: obúvajú si tanečné topánky a vyrážajú po piesku pred bar Lexie.

Hneď za ďalšou palmou nájdete na pódiu Bay Garden gang B-boyov break dance. A potom sú tu turisti: niektorí si prezerajú stánky so suvenírmi, iní prechádzajú po ceste a vydávajú moju Sharonu v karaoke bare.

Jedinou konštantou je kreolská kuchyňa: vyprážaná ryba s hranolkami alebo ryžou a výdatné vedľajšie jedlá, ako je chlebovník, cou cou (listová kaša vyrobená z kukuričnej múky a okry) a makarónový koláč. Väčšina varenia prebieha pod holým nebom, na obrovských panviciach, ktoré očividne videli veľa služieb.

Do niekoľkých minút od prijatia vašej objednávky príde poriadny kus tuniaka alebo mečiara ozdobený ohnivou omáčkou zo žltého korenia, ktorú miestni používajú ako kečup. A to všetko za 20 bajanských dolárov (6,50 libry) - suma, ktorú by ste minuli za malú fľašu vody vo vychytených reštauráciách „Platinum Coast“ na západnej strane ostrova.

Odporučil by som prísť okolo 20:00, práve včas, aby sa z lietajúcich rýb stala ryba vyprážajúca sa. To vám dáva šancu stráviť všetky tie ťažké uhľohydráty a visieť na nohách pri surfovaní z jedného z rebríkov umiestnených pozdĺž brehu vody. Ak chcete trochu intelektuálnej stimulácie, skúste vyzvať miestneho na domine, hre, ku ktorej Bajania pristupujú s akýmsi typom sklovitého oka, ktorý sa častejšie vyskytuje v profesionálnom šachu.

Garner je diabol pre domino. V hre sa prejavuje jeho súťaživý inštinkt rovnakým spôsobom, akým sa chvejúci chvosták kedysi pohyboval na opačnom konci ihriska. Napriek svojim rekordným skúsenostiam ako torpédoborec anglických kriketových tímov si ho stále ctí štvrť milióna turistov, ktorí každý rok zavítajú z letiska Gatwick. Keď pretína dav Oistinov a týči sa nad hýriacimi ľuďmi ako ľudský maják, pravidelne ho oslovujú s cieľom podať ruku alebo autogram a odpovedá typicky bajanskou milosťou.

„Milujem Anglicko,“ hovorí. "Mal som tam domov, keď som hrával okresný kriket a stále sa vraciam do Somersetu za svojimi priateľmi z tých čias. Ale môj skutočný domov je v Enterprise. A je fantastické mať Oistins na prahu. Ak hľadáte niekam ísť v piatok večer, toto je miesto, kam ísť. “

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) ponúka spiatočné cestovné z Londýna Gatwick na Barbados od 569,90 libry vrátane daní, poplatkov a poplatkov. Ak chcete získať ďalšie informácie o ostrove, kontaktujte Barbadosský úrad pre cestovný ruch (www.visitbarbados.org) Zoznam cestovných kancelárií, ktoré predávajú dovolenky na tento a ďalšie karibské ostrovy, získate od Karibská organizácia cestovného ruchu (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Almond Casuarina je obľúbená medzi anglickými hráčmi kriketu od Grahama Goocha po Robina Smitha a je otočená na juh k pokojným, priezračným vodám pláže Maxwell Beach, v pešej vzdialenosti od rušného nočného života St Lawrence Gap a päť minút jazdy od mesta Oistins. 280-izbový hotel je usporiadaný okolo dvoch veľkých bazénov a má uvoľnenú atmosféru.

Hostia môžu využiť všetky zariadenia ďalších dvoch hotelov Almond na západnom pobreží Barbadosu: Beach Village a Beach Club & amp Spa. Vďaka bezplatným kyvadlovým autobusom je to praktický spôsob, ako získať prehľad o ostrove.

All inclusive all inclusive 7 nocí od 999 GBP na osobu v septembri vrátane letov z Gatwicku do Virgin Atlantic, letiskových transferov, daní a príplatkov (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Na východ od letiska je Crane Bay s členitými útesmi a ružovým pieskom. Toto je juhovýchodná strana ostrova, takže vlny a prúdy sú silné.


Ryby Barbados a Oistins s Joelom Garnerom

Simon Briggs otvára sprievodcu letom v Karibiku a pripojí sa k kriketu Joelovi Garnerovi v inštitúcii na Barbadose - piatkový rybí poter v Oistins.

Každej západoindickej plážovej párty existuje niekoľko spoločných prvkov: drsné šteklenie piesku vkrádajúce sa do vašich espadriliek, ostrý záblesk mečiara vareného na grile a šialené bzučanie calypso bije.

Zatiaľ také klišé. Potom však zdvihnete zrak a uvidíte rad dôstojných starších, ktorí sa valia po nábreží k nepravdepodobným kmeňom Kennyho Rogersa. Pre každého znalca karibského nočného života by bolo prostredie okamžite rozpoznateľné: je piatok večer v Oistins, Barbados.

Muži sú elegantne oblečení v oblekoch z džezovej éry a obliekajú dámy, ktoré sú v určitom veku, nosia kvetinové šaty a kapucne, akoby sa zatúlali z nejakej patoisovej úpravy. Pýcha a predsudok.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Pýcha a predsudok.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Pýcha a predsudok.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Pýcha a predsudok.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Pýcha a predsudok.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Pýcha a predsudok.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Dostať sa tam

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotely

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. Vďaka bezplatným kyvadlovým autobusom je to praktický spôsob, ako získať prehľad o ostrove.

All inclusive all inclusive 7 nocí od 999 GBP na osobu v septembri vrátane letov z Gatwicku do Virgin Atlantic, letiskových transferov, daní a príplatkov (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Na východ od letiska je Crane Bay s členitými útesmi a ružovým pieskom. Toto je juhovýchodná strana ostrova, takže vlny a prúdy sú silné.


Pozri si video: Policajt z kinder vejce. Lov na žížaly a těsto. Rybářské retro. (August 2022).